#CAFFE MINGO WINDOWS#
The space is nearly unrecognizable now, chic gray and black with big windows and spare furnishings. Division St., 50, opened last month in the space that was once the Red and Black Cafe. One night was a take on ideal picnic food: a lovely piece of albacore tuna poached in olive oil and served at room temperature with white beans.Īmong the little flurry of new wine bars, Bar Avignon (2138 S.E. If you're the sort of person who just can't make a meal of appetizers, the rest of the menu, inscribed on a large chalkboard, provides changing trios of pastas and entrees including simple pastas (fresh tagliatelle tossed with butter and Parm, tonnatelli with pecorino and pepper) and steak, chicken and fish. There's also a fat grilled Italian sausage over polenta and sautéed spinach, chicken livers with Marsala, anchovy, sage and capers on bruschetta, tender lamb meatballs, and appropriately stringy suppli al telefono (risotto balls stuffed with mozzarella). They arrive plated individually and a bit helter-skelter, but that makes for a leisurely meander through the 'meal.' Cold choices include assorted salami or cheese, an oyster trio, a crisp and light seafood salad or a strongly flavored mixed green salad with gorgonzola, roasted grapes and walnuts.Ī bowl of Penn Cove mussels makes a hearty choice from the hot list. The best bet, unless you're alone, is to choose five for $32 (otherwise one for $8, three for $21). A changing list offers seven hot and seven cold dishes. Servers demonstrate both familiarity and comfort with such a complex list.
The lengthy wine list is divided the normal way (red and white), but also into Italian and not. The house cocktail list (all $8) focuses on retro cool classics (Bellinis, Negronis, sidecars), but in recognition of the Northwestern locale there's also an espresso martini.
The atmosphere is grown-up without being stuffy. This large bilevel space, which opened in April, has a long bar, a row of window tables and several more sociable, comfier spots frequently taken up by large groups of gigglers who could be en route to bachelorette parties. The adjoining Bar Mingo (50) is, in fact, interesting enough on its own that you may be lulled into having your whole meal there. 21st Ave., 50, is one of those restaurants that has worked so well and so consistently, for so long, it's easy to forget about it if it's not in your regular orbit.īut when you do remember the lively, intimate setting, delicious, fresh pastas and well-executed Italian entrees, you'll be pleased to discover that it's exactly the same.Įxcept that now there's a better place to wait for a table (Caffe Mingo takes reservations only for groups of six more more).
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